West to east tour

31 Agosto 2007
28/08/07 
 
Milena,
 

Salve! I just wanted to drop you a line to tell you what a
 wonderful week we  had in Sicily!!  With your help, we
 were able to get a wonderful sense of  the country as well
 as see my relatives.
 

 It all worked out so well.  Janesh and Mario were
 wonderful.  They were so  professional, informative and
 accomodating.   We had a great time together.   The hotels
 were very lovely.  They were very clean and the staff was
 helpful  and courteous.  Each hotel had a unique style
 that made it very interesting.
   I have to say, the hotel in Taormina wins the prize!
 Taormina was my  favorite city.
 

 The tours and sites were incredible!  I did not realize
 how much diversity  exists in Sicily. The guides were
 great at explaining the cultural  influences.  From the
 architecture to the people, it was amazing!  I am
 convinced I am part Greek, Arab AND Norman!!.....which
 explains so much!!!
 

 Of course visiting the towns of my family was also a
 wondeful experience.   It was great to get to see not only
 the tourist sites, but also the small  villages.
 Mistretta was beautiful!  The air was so cool and dry
 which was a  great break from the heat.  I understand the
 week before we came was even  hotter.  I can't even
 imagine it!  I guess we were really lucky with the
 weather.
 

 Even though I was getting tan from just walking around in
 Sicily, going to  the beach at Noto, I wasn't prepared for
 the sun and got a little sunburn.   What a fabulous
 beach!!  I walked out so far and the water was still not
 deep!  Now that's MY kind of beach!  The water so
 incredibly refreshing.  It  was such a great break in
 between sightseeing and visiting with my family.
 

 It was also so wonderful to meet family members that I had
 never seen  before.  We laughed and had a great time
 together.  My family members took  me to see where my
 parents and grandparents grew up as well as the local
 sites.  (I was so glad that we didn't sit around the table
 eating the whole  time!  That was what I was afraid would
 happen, you know Sicilian  families....)
 

 Thank you again for all your patience, professionalism and
 input.  It was  the perfect trip that I had hoped for!
 There was no other tour that offered  what your agency
 gave us.  Just to let you know, I found your organization
 on-line after much research.  I would highly recommend you
 market  yourselves, especially in the U.S. New York/New
 Jersey area because there  are tons of Sicilian Americans
 that would love to do what I did.  You were  great at
 pulling it all together for me. You did an incredible job
 with very little time!!  Your boss is really lucky  to
 have such a great worker!
 

 Thank you again and next time we'll plan what I didn't get
 a chance to see  on this trip!!
 

 Con molto gratitudine,
 Vita  

A Bounty From Uneven Terrain

27 Maggio 2007

By Mary Taylor Simeti;
Le Case del Feudo, where we spent the next night after a day in Syracuse, occupies the former granaries and wine cellars of a large estate of citrus groves and vineyards belonging to Baron Pietro Beneventano del Bosco, who also owns a spectacular palace across from the Syracuse cathedral. Like many Sicilian aristocrats, he has found that the best way to maintain his estates is to welcome tourists: he organizes dinners in the palace and picnics on the Ciane River, and has built bedrooms and small apartments for guests in his baglio, as Sicilian farms round a courtyard are often called.We had one of the smaller rooms, the Camera del Marinaio, with a very small and spartan shower and simply decorated with ship lanterns and seagoing prints. The larger ones are extremely pretty, with stenciled walls, four-poster beds and antiques. In the warmer months meals are served at umbrella-shaded tables in the central courtyard (the next morning, Jan. 5, we sat there in our shirt sleeves and soaked up the sun) and a swimming pool surrounded by deck chairs beckoned from the garden, but what we liked best upon arrival was a lighted fireplace in the big hall next to the dining room, where we could sit with our books until an aperitif was served.

We had happened in at a particularly grand moment — there was a plethora of princesses sitting around the long dinner table, lingering after a New Year’s celebration. But the atmosphere was informal, and over pasta con sugo, risotto di asparagi, gamberi and calamari fritti, rollò di carne, and deliciously fresh tangerines, the baron, who is an archaeology buff, regaled us with stories about nearby excavations and with descriptions of the special Syracusan dishes — stuffed pork chops, zuppa di pesce, marinated anchovies with onions and blood oranges — that we could have eaten upon request if we had been staying longer.

The baron himself lives in town, but he comes to the farm daily and is often there for dinner. In his absence Rosalba La Greca, his cook and manager, takes his place with obvious pride and dedication.

We wistfully concluded (our next lesson) that there is not much point in spending just one night in an agriturismo. The possibility of choosing what you want to eat the next evening is perhaps rare, but in the good establishments the atmosphere is conducive to leisurely exploration, savoring the coming and going in a familiar landscape, extending the first night’s acquaintances and meeting local people. The pace is rural, so those who want to do all of Sicily in one week probably would be happier in city hotels.

 

2. Sicilian words

17 Maggio 2007

      of pre-classical origin
§   alastra (a thorny, prickly plant native to the Mediterranean region; but also Greek kelastron and may in fact have penetrated Sicilian Sicilian words via one of the Gallic idioms)
§   ammarrari (to dam or block a canal or running water; but also Spanish embarrar - to muddy)
§   calancuni (ripples caused by a fast running river)
§   calanna (landslide of rocks)
§   racioppu (stalk or stem, e.g. of a fruit, Mediterranean rak)
§   timpa (crag, cliff; but also Greek tymba, Latin tumba and Catalan timba).
There are also Sicilian words with an ancient Indo-European origin that do not appear to have come to the language via any of the major language groups normally associated with Sicilian, i.e. they have been independently derived from a very early Indo-European source. The Siculi are a possible source of such words, but there is also the possibility of a cross-over between ancient Mediterranean words and introduced Indo-European forms. Some examples of Sicilian words with an ancient Indo-European origin:
§   dudda (mulberry; similar to Welsh rhudd and Lithuanian rauda meaning the colour “pink”; Romanian “dudă”)
§   scrozzu (not well developed; similar to Lithuanian su-skurdes with a similar meaning and Old High German scurz, meaning short)
§   sfunnacata (multitude, vast number; from Indo-European und/Fund meaning water)
       Sicilian words of Greek origin
§   appizzari - to rot, go bad (as in fruit), ruin (from (eks) èpeson)
§   babbiari - to fool around (from babazo, which also gives the sicilian words: babbazzu and babbu - stupid; but Latin babulus and Spanish babieca)
§   bucali - pitcher (from baukalion)
§   bùmmulu - water receptacle (from bombylos; but Latin bombyla)
§   cartedda - basket (from kartallos; but Latin cratellum)
§   carusu - boy (from kouros; but Latin carus - dear, Sanskrit caruh - amiable)
§   casèntaru - earthworm (from gas enteron)
§   cirasa - cherry (from kerasos; but Latin cerasum)
§   cona - icon, image, metaphor (from eikyon; but Latin icona)
§   cuddura - type of bread (from kollyra; but Latin collyra)
§   grasta - flower pot (from gastra; but Latin gastra)
§   naca - cradle (from nake)
§   ntamari - to stun, amaze (from thambeo; but Calabrese tàmmaru - stupid, comes from Arabic tammar date vendor)
§   pistiari - to eat (from apestiein)
§   tuppuliàri - to knock (from typto).
    Sicilian words of Arab origin
§   babbaluciu - snail (from babus; but Greek boubalàkion)
§   burnia - jar (from burniya; but Latin hirnea)
§   cafisu - measure for liquids (from qafiz)
§   cassata - sicilian cake (from qashatah; but Latin caseata - something made from cheese)
§   gebbia - artificial pond to store water for irrigation (from gabiya)
§   giuggiulena - sesame seed (from giulgiulan)
§   saia - canal (from saqiya)
§   zaffarana - type of plant whose flowers are used for medicinal purposes (from safara)
§   zagara - blossom (from zahar)
§   zibbibbu - type of grape (from zabib)
§   zuccu - tree trunk (from suq; but Aragonese soccu and Spanish zoque).
       Sicilian words of Norman French origin
§   accattari - to buy (from Norman acater, Modern French = Acheter)
§   ammintuari – to mention, nominate (from Norman mentevoir)
§   bucceri (vucceri) - butcher (from bouchier)
§   custureri - tailor (from coustrier)
§   firranti - grey (from ferrant)
§   foddi - mad (from fol)
§   giugnettu - July (from juignet)
§   ladiu or laiu - ugly (from laid)
§   largasìa - generosity (from largesse)
§   puseri - thumb (from poucier)
§   racina - grape (from raisin)
§   raggia – anger (from rage)
§   testa - head (from teste)
§   trippari - to hop, skip (from Norman triper)
     Sicilian words of German origin
§   arbitriari - to work in the fields (from arbeit)
§   vardari - to watch over (from wartên)
§   guastari or vastari - to waste, use up (from wastjan)
§   guddefi - forest, woods (from wald, note resemblance to anglo-saxon wudu)
§   guzzuniari - to wag, as in a tail (from hutsen)
§   lancedda - terracotta jug for holding water (from Old High German lagella)
§   salaguni - willow (from Old High German salaha)
§   sparagnari - to save money (from Old High German sparen)
      Sicilian words of Catalan origin
§   accabbari - to finish, end (from acabar)
§   addunarisi - to notice, realise (from adonar-se)
§   affruntarisi - to be embarrassed (from afrontar-se)
§   ammucciari - to hide (from amagar)
§   arruciari – to moisten, soak (from arruixar)
§   criscimogna - growth, development (from creiximoni)
§   muccaturi - handkerchief (from mocador)
§   nzirtari - to guess (from encertar)
§   priàrisi - to be pleased (from prear-se)
       Sicilian words of Spanish origin
§   arricugghirisi - to return home; (from arrecogerse; but Catalan recollir-se)
§   balanza – scales (from balanza)
§   filiccia - arrow (from flecha)
§   làstima – lament, annoyance (from lástima)
§   pignata – pan (from pinada)
§   pinzèddu – brush (from pincel)
§   ricivu – receipt (from recibo)
§   spagnari - to be frightened ( cross over of Sic. appagnari with Sp. espantarse)
§   spatari - to impede or disarm someone of his sword (from espadar)
§   sulità or sulitati – solitude (from soledad)

Blogorama

10 Marzo 2007

Blogarama

DON’T MISS MONREALE CATHEDRAL by Lisa Gerard - Sharp

10 Marzo 2007

palermo_06.jpg

Set in a village outside Palermo, this magnificent Norman cathedral is a fusion of Arab and Christian art. The Benedictine complex is a tribute to Byzantine craftsmanship, Arab imagery and Norman scale, reflecting the cosmopolitan nature of the Sicilian court. The cathedral contains

a tapestry of mosaics which is unequalled in Europe, while the cloisters are masterpieces of Islamic art. In the words of a local proverb, “He who goes to Palermo without seeing Monreale leaves a donkey and comes back an ass.”

SAN GIOVANNI DEGLI EREMITI by Lisa Gerard - Sharp

10 Marzo 2007

sgiovanni-eremiti.jpg

This red-domed church is dedicated to St John of the Hermits and is an intimate, quintessentially Sicilian hybrid, a Benedictine abbey and basilica

incorporating a mosque with Norman cloisters and jasmine-clad gardens.

 

 

Opening times 9am–7.30pm Mon–Sat

Just down the road, we wander into San Giovanni degli Eremiti, a ruined Benedictine abbey and

red-domed mosque surrounded by an exotic garden of jasmine, dwarf palms and kumquats. The cloisters are entwined with tendrils of acanthus leaves, echoing those encrusted on the

Romanesque columns. To nostalgic Palermitans, the spell is of an Arab ‘garden of delights’. Under Arab-Norman rule, the city welcomed 300 mosques and was ringed by pleasure palaces, palms, citrus groves and vineyards. In the 9th century, the Arabs ran a liberal regime and employed Greek craftsmen here, heirs to the Byzantine tradition.

 

 

 

 

WHAT TO SEE - CAPPELLA PALATINA by Lisa Gerard - Sharp

10 Marzo 2007

palermo_05.jpg 

The Cappella Palatina, the Arab-Norman royal chapel, is unique in a Christian church, a composition of ineffable Oriental splendour, adorned with glittering mosaics. The Arabian honeycomb ceiling, known as muqarnas, was created by Iraqi artists from Samara.

The Arab imprint is also present in the Islamic-style Sala di Re Ruggero, frescoed with hunting scenes. The courtyard is a Sicilian hybrid, with a Norman fountain, Islamic star-shaped windows and stalactite ceilings.

Discover Palermo by Lisa Gerard - Sharp

10 Marzo 2007

Lisa Gerard-Sharp explores Italy’s most sweet-and-sour city, where darkness and light are equally seductive, but where 

light is slowly conquering its Moorish core… 

‘‘Don’t go to Palermo with an itinerary, go with an open heart”, pleads fashion designer Domenico Dolce. The co-founder of Dolce & Gabbana speaks of his home town with a passion shared by most Palermitans. No map does justice to a city so colonised, yet so proud of its identity. Dominated by the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Aragonese, Spanish and Bourbons, Sicily even had a British interlude from 1806–15. “History has been a wicked stepmother to us Sicilians”, sighs  Leonardo Sciascia, one of the island’s greatest novelists. But colonisation can also be a gift: the Sicilians simply absorbed every invading culture and subsumed everything that it would be reckless to resist. This exotic amalgam has created the sated, yet sophisticated culture that is Palermo today. But unlike the east of the island, which has a sunnier Greek imprint, Palermo is profoundly Arab, luxuriating in a sultry decadence. Although overladen by a brooding Spanish grandeur, Palermo inhabits a maze of Moorish alleys and is littered with Arab-Norman churches, which pass for red-domed mosques. 

Architect Giada Platania knows her native city inside out and likens Palermo to “a jewel box containing a 1,000-year-old history, beautiful monuments and an open-minded, multi-cultural society where we still help elderly people and are kind to children, and don’t mow you down as you cross the road. Our markets offer superb fresh food and colourful personal .
palermo_09.jpg    palermo_10.jpg

Mondello: sea, sun and sand in the outskirts of Palermo

25 Febbraio 2007

mondello.jpg It’s always beach weather for Palermo residents, and that means Mondello resort.

020-mondello-beach.jpg Before this beachfront town started attracting the wealthy class of Palermo, it was a fishing village, and you can still see rainbow-colored fishing boats bobbing in the harbour. A good sandy beach stretches for about 2km (1 1/4 miles), filled to capacity on July and August days. 

 mondello_allestimento.jpg Between the wars, Mondello was a snobbish retreat for the upper crust, evoking the most fashionable parts of the French Riviera. After World War II, it more democratically became a “beach for everyone.”  Opening onto a half-moon-shaped bay between Monte Pellegrino and Capo Gallo, Mondello is the place for showing off your most daring swimwear and for living the good life, including lots of late-night staggering along with the young Palermitani from bar to bar (largely in the center, around Piazza Mondello).charleston_mondello.jpg In the center of the beach, rising from concrete piers above the surface of the water, and connected to the Sicilian “mainland” with a bridge, you can still see the kursaal, a whimsical bathhouse (now one of the best restaurants of Palermo, Charleston Le Terrazze) designed in the Art Nouveau style and adorned with sea dragons and other mythological creatures.

Thanks to the wonderful climate, all the year around Mondello is the background of a series of important events, like the Windsurf World Festival.

La Palazzina Chinese (Little Chinese Palace): the exotic folly of the Bourbon kings

25 Febbraio 2007

Palermo is like no other city in Europe. It is ancient and beautiful, with buildings and squares as good as those in Rome or Naples.
 

chinese_house.jpg One of Palermo’s most extraordinary buildings is the Palazzina Cinese (Little Chinese Palace) - a miniature, Chinese-style palace created in 1799 by the eminent Palermitan architect Venanzio Marvuglia for King Ferdinand and Queen Maria Carolina of Naples. This royal couple took refuge from the French in Sicily in 1798 and the new palace was home to their minuscule court, which included Admiral Nelson.
 

ladyhamilton_horace_nelson.jpg Nelson had orchestrated the royal escape from Naples and lived in Palermo, with Lady Hamilton, in 1799. This pair of unlikely couples enjoyed a strange and intimate relationship, with Maria Carolina asking Emma for her views on matters of state and Nelson presenting the king and queen with a set of English prints including, it is alleged, views of Lady Hamilton striking a number of her famous “attitudes”.
 

palcinese.jpg The Palazzina Cinese was the first example of eclectic architecture in Palermo, a combination of Chinese decorative motifs and Gothic, Egyptian, and Arab elements. Overall, it is an extravagant work, exemplified by details such as the repetition of bells in the shape of a pagoda on the fence, the cornices, and the roof.
 

palermo-interior-chinese-house.jpg The interior is equally flamboyant: The first floor is decorated in an eccentric version of Chinese taste and includes a dining table furnished with plate hoists, which permitted food to be delivered from below and used cutlery to be removed without the interruption of servants. The king was a secretive man and enjoyed life.
The ground and upper floors are decorated in Neo-Classical style with much reference to the Roman interiors then being discovered in Pompeii; the queen’s apartment on the floor above includes Gothic and Turkish rooms.
The palazzina is in public ownership, but has been closed to the public for 10 years. It is currently under restoration and will be soon re-opened.

museo_pitre.jpg If earlier eras have left aristocratic splendor, popular customs of the 19th century live on in Palermo, both in the museums and in the city streets. The Pitre Ethnographic Museum, set in the stables of Palazzina Cinese, has a charming collection of Sicilian folk art: laces, ceramics, ex-votos (paintings or objects used as votive offerings), carts, costumes and puppets, tools for hunting, fishing and agriculture, and ornaments related to important festivals, superstition and popular devotion.